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The Battle of The Soups

Thursday, June 26th, 2008

I visited my dad 2 weeks ago on a windy wet Saturday. The day before I had bought a bacon hock to make soup and I mentioned this and told him I’d bring him some once I made the soup. And then we reminisced about the great pots of comforting soup my mother used to make and how they virtually kept us alive throughout winter – we like to reminisce about such things, and although his mind is as sharp as a tack, we allow each other to exaggerate a little, as you do. I duly made a big pot of soup with the bacon hock and split peas. It smelled so good while it was cooking, and tasted delicious, full of memories and goodness. Over I went to dad’s with enough soup for three meals. What do you think I could smell when I walked in his house? Soup! Pea soup! WHAT? I thought I must have spilled some and that was what I could smell.

He was sitting down on the couch so I went up to him, gave him a cuddle and showed him my containers of soup, expecting the usual praise ‘you shouldn’t gone to so much trouble, etc, etc, but he just started laughing, guffawing even, which is more than a smirk or a chuckle, and a trifle annoying when you’re not in on the joke. I followed his eyes and glanced over to the kitchen, and there lined up neatly for all to see were a dozen containers filled with a thick soup-like concoction. The cheeky devil! He’d gone ahead and made his own big batch of soup, in fact he’d made enough for Africa by the look of it (the pot was still more than half-full). You’re probably thinking, so what… but the remarkable thing about this event is that my dad is 97 years-old. He still lives on his own, as he has done since my mother died 26 years ago, and he still cooks for himself, too. And he’d decided he fancied soup after we’d talked about it, and he wasn’t waiting for me to bring him any just in case I forgot. He was suspicious of my soup at first, claiming his had more ingredients and had been cooked longer than mine, but mine had a better colour, and there was meat in it, which he is partial to. And I reckon his soup was too thick –no challenge at all to the proverbial ‘so thick you can stand a wooden spoon in it upright’. Without wanting to lose ground, but feeling a bit humbled, and maybe secretly thinking my soup did look better than his because of the chunks of bacon, he suggested that I freeze his containers of soup, which I did, labeling them and stacking them so he could find them easily, and leave mine in the fridge for his dinner that night. He had it for dinner and more for lunch the next day. When I spoke to him yesterday, he said he’d enjoyed it, but, ‘Do you know what? I’m over soup. I’ve gone off it. I get a craving for something these days, make enough for an army, then go off it.’ I think mine tasted better than his, and he knew it!

If you’ve got a soup story you’d like to share with me and other readers, send it in. And if you’ve got a fabulous soup recipe you’d like to share, email it to me. Maybe we should have a competition for the best soup…you’ll need to send in a picture, too. And, I’ll send an autographed copy of Sizzle Sensational Barbecue Food to the winner. Get those soup pots a-bubbling!

A Fine Tradition – taking time for tea

Monday, June 16th, 2008

Tea TimeStopping work for a cup of tea and a natter during working hours is something most of us indulge in regularly, but an invitation to a formal afternoon tea served in the home is rare these days. But after enjoying a few special hours at the Langham Hotel in Auckland on Tuesday, I’m thinking of reviving the tradition. It’s cheaper than entertaining in the evening – the invitation is to drink tea, after all, not Champagne – and you can specify the time your guests arrive and leave. If you’ve ever suffered guests who just don’t know when to go home, this could be a blessing!

But back to the Langham Hotel. The invitation was to come and enjoy the Langham’s signature afternoon tea for the same price that was paid for it 143 years ago: one shilling six pence. How could I refuse?

The Langham London was able to establish that she was the first grand hotel to serve afternoon tea after an original hotel tariff dated 10 June 1865 was uncovered showing afternoon tea billed as ‘Teas, Plain’ consisting of simple but dainty items including cakes, sweets, bread and butter and, of course, tea.  Other popular afternoon tea establishments such as The Ritz and Savoy were not in existence at this time.

To honour this part of dining history, Langham hotels around the world – in Auckland, Boston, Hong Kong, London, Melbourne and Pasadena – served afternoon tea in grand style for little more than a few cents on Tuesday 10th June. (For New Zealanders one shilling six pence equates to .18c NZD.)

The Langham Auckland afternoon tea consists of petite scones, smoked salmon pinwheels, tomato, cucumber and egg sandwiches, chocolate-coated tuxedo-dressed strawberries, fresh fruit tartlets, lamingtons, English fruit cake, and spice cake accompanied by crème fraiche, strawberry preserve, butter, and of course, tea and coffee. What a treat! 
My first formal afternoon tea was taken at The Farmer’s department store in Auckland with my mother. It was a hat and gloves’ affair and while I remember steaming pots of tea, sandwiches and scones, I remember much more clearly the hushed words from my mother asking me to be on my best behaviour. That meant asking for food to be passed rather than reaching and grabbing it, otherwise speaking only when spoken to, eating with one’s mouth closed, and never talking while eating. Afternoon tea at the Langham this week was a far cry from those days. My daughter Ilaria and friends Sue and Liz and I relaxed in the soft squishy armchairs, and while doing our best to hold on to some decorum, we started with Champagne (why not, we chorused?) laughed louder than we should, ate more than we should, and had way more fun than I ever did as a girl in those tight little afternoon teas. Highly recommended.

You don’t go to Masterclasses to be served up what you make at home

Tuesday, May 27th, 2008
Javier Codina and meSavour New Zealand has established itself as New Zealand’s premiere food and wine event. Now held annually and in Auckland at the Langham Hotel 2008 through to 2010, it’s a showcase of talent, local and imported, featuring a range of Masterclasses, tastings, special event dinners and themed lunches. It caters to the cheffing brigade as well as home cooks. Real food – that is fresh, mostly locally grown, cooked from scratch, presented with little more than the individual chef’s panache, featured prominently in this year’s May programme, but a touch of molecular gastronomy, you know, foams and spheres and things made with gel, got tongues wagging in some classes. Javier Codina from Gianni’s restaurant in Brisbane certainly got a reaction when he fried angel hair pasta BEFORE cooking it – an old Catalonian trick he reckoned.  
The pasta was then cooked with a sofrito (gently cooked vegetables) of Javier's Angel Hair Pasta, Sofrito, Shellfish Deglazed with Tio Pepe & Picada Ali-Oligarlic, capsicum, onion and tomatoes, and lobster stock streaked with saffron. Not your average dinner party dish this one.
Javier’s Piquillo Peppers Stuffed with Salted Cod Brandade, Pil Pil Sauce & Apple Petite SaladSalt cod is a little hard to come by round these parts, too, but Javier somehow managed to procure a couple of sides of it which he desalted and mixed with potato and olive oil puree before stuffing it into piquillo peppers. The peppers were topped with a truly remarkable petite salad of green apples, coriander (cilantro) and coriander seeds, lemon juice and olive oil. I have made stuffed piquillo peppers, but sans salted cod, using smoked fish, and it is a stunner. Next time I’ll try it with a crisp and sharpish green apple topping a la Javier.
 
 Govind Armstrong from Table 8 Restaurant, LA, also caused a stir. Everyone, just Govind Armstrongeveryone, who attended his class was going home to make his cauliflower couscous. Govind whizzed the cauliflower into little beads in a food processor, blanched them then finished them in a pan with sizzled shallot and stock. The result? Tiny little ‘cous cous-like pellets’ of flavour-filled caulifower!

If you’re bored with your repertoire of dishes, get yourself off to a cooking class. Shabu shabu beef, Yuzu flavoured sushi, NZ Furikake crackers, Wasabi leaf & shiso salad with Pickled ginger foam anyone? No? Thought not, but you can always pop in to the George Hotel, Christchurch and have Andrew Brown whip this one up for you.

 Govind Armstrong and me on stage 
This years’ presenters included Philip Johnson from e’cco restaurant in Brisbane and Greg Malouf from MoMo restaurant in Melbourne, along with our own top team of chefs Andrew Brown (George Hotel), Paul Jobin (Pure Tastes), Jonny Schwass (Restaurant Schwass), Michael Meredith (Merediths) and Jason Dell (Blanket Bay). The programme was bulked out with the irrepressible and exceedingly knowledgeable Tony Tan, Stephanie Alexander, stalwart of the Kitchen Garden Foundation (a programme teaching kids and schools how to produce food and cook it), Claire Aldous, Food Editor of Dish magazine, zany television presenter Peta Mathias, Faith Willinger, exponent of exceptional Italian food, Master of Wine Jane Skilton and other renowned wine experts, Anthony Dias Blue (Exec Dir. San Francisco International Wine Competition), Martin Tillard (vineyard manager, Camshorn), John Trail (Pernot Ricard Wine & Spirit Trainer) and Patrick Materman (former NZ Winemaker of the Year).
 
 

Succulent New Zealand Lamb

Sunday, May 11th, 2008

The London International Book Fair (LIBF) is held annually at Earls Court, London, in the northern hemisphere spring (the date for the 2009 Fair is 20-22nd April). It attracts publishing professionals from around the globe, and an enormous clutch of national and international press. It is the world’s leading international spring event for bookselling, rights trading and book production services. A good place to strut your stuff, then, if you’re either an author or self-publisher hungry to grow foreign markets, or a publisher looking for T.N.B.T. (the next big thing!).

This year, the LIBF teamed up with Edouard Cointreau, Chairman of the Gourmand Cookbook Awards and associated activities, to produce a series of cooking and drinks demonstrations over the three days of the Fair in an area named the Cookbook Corner.

Of course, I had to be there. No, I didn’t gatecrash, I was invited, but amidst such high-octane company (BIG stars such as Chef Wan from Malaysia and Chef Ramzi from Lebanon, Art Smith from Ophra’s show and the gorgeous Chagall from Portugal) I had to perform at full throttle. I showcased New Zealand lamb. I was able to pick up shortloins – that’s the succulent nut of meat cut from the rack – from my local Waitrose supermarket opposite my hotel in Gloucester Road. The hotel kept the lamb in their fridge for me over the weekend and I just hoped no one would come across it and fry it up for brunch or something.

Come the day of the demonstration, I was off, several heavy bags in tow, and eventually arrived, after a tortuously slow taxi ride, at Earls Court. I could have walked there in a matter of minutes…just not with 7 bags packed to the gunnels with lamb, baby beets, extra virgin olive oil, Greek yoghurt, rocket (arugula) and semi-dried tomatoes. What was I demonstrating? One of my favourite dishes from my book Sizzle, Sensational Barbecue Food – lamb shortloins brushed with cumin butter and seared on a hot grill, cooked to medium-rare, sliced and served on toasted baps (buns) with a rocket salad, baby beet salad with walnuts and lemon zest and a cucumber and Greek yoghurt salad. The combination is just to die-for (meaning, well, pretty delicious!). If you use thick Greek yoghurt in this way, you may never go for mayonnaise again – it provides all the creaminess without the calories.

That’s the lamb on the board, sliced up and ready to assemble. The great thing is, it only takes a few minutes to cook. More later….