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Delicious soft shell crab in New Orleans

Thursday, May 1st, 2008

Soft Shell CrabI’m not going to beat around the bush – a lot of the food in New Orleans is not to my taste. I’m taking about fried starchy things which to me have no reason for being other than to add unnecessary calories to one’s diet. That said, some things stand out from my recent visit. Lunch at August restaurant, situated in the CBD in an historic four-storey ‘French-Creole’ building dating from 1800, voted 22nd in Gourmet Magazine’s Top 50 American restaurants, with John Besh at the helm – named Best Chef of the Southeast by The James Beard Foundation in 2006 – put a smile on my face. It was the start of the soft shell crab season – it runs for 3-4 months – and as I was an early diner (in the door, starving, before midday), I was the first to order the first of the soft shells! Besh had them coated in a light crisp tempura-style batter, panfried, with white trumpet mushrooms, topped off with ginger foam, and a few sprigs of dill and chervil, served with fava beans, spring peas and sugar snaps. My dining companion Dalyn gave me a forkful or two of his flaky ling in browned butter with capers and lemon confit. All perfectly executed. We preceded this with a warm spring vegetable salad of spring peas, fava beans, slivered snow peas, sautéed white scallions, mizuna leaves, parmesan crisps and crisp porky bits of cherrywood bacon. The piece de resistance was the tiny poached egg on top of the salads. You may wonder why I ordered two dishes with spring vegetables. After all the fried food, white bread, mayonnaise and other unmentionables I had been served up during the week I was in New Orleans, I was desperate for vegetables and salad. August didn’t disappoint.

August
301 Tchoupitoulas Street
New Orleans, LA 70130
504-299-9777
 
 

And the place to stay in New Orleans?

Loews Hotel
300 Poydras Street
New Orleans, LA 70130
504-636-3300

where you can enjoy great cocktails in the airy bar, and above-average food in the hotel’s café, Cafe Adelaide.
Julie New Orleans

Judging Apple Cakes

Monday, April 7th, 2008

I want to warn you that should someone ask you one day to judge an apple cake recipe, you would be wise to think it over before saying yes. Because while visions of fluffy sponges and caramelized apples and layered cakes dusted with powdered sugar might tease your taste buds, the reality is something else. 

I was asked if I would be available to judge an apple cake competition on the final day of the Girls Day Out event held in Auckland recently. I replied nonchalantly ‘sure’, as you do, and didn’t think any more about it until the day of judging.

This is how we get ourselves into trouble. Saying ‘yes’ to things we haven’t fully listened to or investigated.

A dozen or so apple cakes appeared in my peripheral vision some time in the afternoon. Mmmm. I remembered I had something to do with them. I did my demonstration, cleaned up, then the cakes were brought up onto the demonstration bench. Now this is tricky. Judging in the back kitchen where you can poke and prod proffered specimens unseen, where you can say what you truly feel, and even spit out anything revolting (and, there’s always one!), is different to being on stage with the cameras rolling and everyone hanging on your every word!

Picture this: There was a kind of hush as I cut into my first cake. My stomach threatened a revolt when I realised that I would have to eat a little of each one. That’s when I regreted agreeing to do the judging. The cake-makers were in the audience, too, and I could hear little intakes of breath, and feel their eyes boring into me as they awaited my pronouncements. You could hear a pin drop. The first cake looked attractive and was nicely cooked – a shallowish sort of sponge covered with sliced Granny Smith apples, which have just come into season, and dusted with icing sugar. Looks can be deceiving, but not this time, the cake was quite delicious. What a relief. An assortment of cakes followed, some not so successful and others good family standbys, and one or two more exceptional cakes. It probably took me about 15 minutes to judge a dozen cakes. The judging was compered by the event’s MC, and every so often I made a comment, trying not to spit bits of cake over everyone (well, you try and talk with your mouth full of cake!) and for the entire 15 minutes, I kept a smile on my face, in order not to offend anyone or to give anything away.

Luckily, this time there were three good cakes, and a clear winner, though none of them hit the highs of my German sister-in-law Dolores’ apple cake, a soft pillowy sponge with apples embedded throughout in layers, and a sprinkling of cinnamon sugar on the top. Perfection.  Anyone want the recipe?